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Skincare Spotlight Looking Ahead: 2014 Skincare Trends Here's what the experts expect in trends for the year—from antiaging to men's grooming and beyond. by Ada S. Polla MULTICHANNEL DISTRIBUTION Perhaps what characterizes our time more than anything else is the breakdown in barriers to communication, both in terms of access and speed. While this trend's impact affects more than the skincare industry, it is having a very specific affect on beauty sales and on the way niche brands distribute their products. Indeed, as reported in WWD (Nov. 8, 2013), online sales are an increasingly significant source of revenue for brands: "While online sales of skin care are still dwarfed by retail figures, shoppers are flocking to skin care online at ever-increasing levels. In a survey of 502 online beauty and personal-care shoppers, A.T. Kearney found Store—which has attracted a number of luxury skincare lines—is any indication, the online landscape will continue to shift and mold the skincare industry. ANTIAGING INGREDIENT TECHNOLOGY We all want to look younger. The antiaging category is expected to continue to grow, driven by innovative ingredients and technologies. Marla Malcolm Beck, co-founder of Bluemercury and founder of M-61 Anti-Aging Skin Care, has this to say: "We continue to see a tremendous amount of launches in the category of highly efficacious antiaging skin care, especially around treating hyperpigmentation and wrinkles. From Darphin's Stimulskin Plus collection, which treats hyperpigmentation and builds collagen; to Revive's Moisturizing Renewal Cream Retexturizing Serum; to Caudalie's polyphenol collection; and M-61's Hydraboost cream, packed with B5 and peptides, brands continue to include highly active ingredients for instantaneous and long-term results." The quest for eternal youth continues. "Devices in combination with efficacious topical technology will be something to watch in 2014." that 64% bought skin-care products online either frequently or occasionally—the peak percentage across seven beauty categories. "According to Euromonitor International, Internet retail accounted for 12.2% or $1.4 billion of the total $11.67 billion U.S. skin-care market in 2012, up from 11.6% or $1.26 billion of the $10.88 billion market in 2010, and 10.5% or nearly $1.14 billion of the almost $10.85 billion market in 2008," reported the same WWD article. If the launch of Amazon's grooming website for men's products and, more recently, its Luxury Beauty 70 January 2014 | beautystorebusiness.com EVOLUTION IN SUNSCREEN TECHNOLOGY I expect suncare formulation to evolve. While the past couple of years have already seen significant developments in this category—both from an ingredient perspective and from a regulatory perspective—the perfect sunscreen still eludes us. Ashley Van Dyke, junior buyer for DermStore, expects this category to continue to grow: "The suncare category is already very prevalent, but I expect it will become so even more." Specifically, Ido Leffler, co-founder of Yes To, sees the industry pushing the limits in terms of natural SPF products. MULTITASKING PRODUCTS While the desire to have one product do it all is nothing new, the recent development of alphabet creams have enabled manufacturers to take this trend to a new level. One product can now color, treat, prevent and provide SPF protection. While no one can say what the next multitasking product will look like, beauty products that do it all will continue to captivate the consumer—for example, a hair conditioner that is also a skin moisturizer; or a cleanser that acts as makeup. Who knows? Gogi Sangha, president and CEO of G.S. Cosmeceutical, agrees: "In the fast-paced society we live in, the demand for multifunctional products will continue to grow in 2014. Consumers seek innovative products that will save them time and money while providing visible results. People expect more from their skincare products and makeup, driving brands to create multi correction, simplicity and results all in one. This is also driving the growing demand for cosmetics and makeup that improve and conceal the skin with just one application." DEVICES Ever since the Clarisonic facial brush changed consumers' skincare cleansing routines, the at-home device category has continued to explode, and I do not expect to see a slow down in 2014. More specifically, JuE Wong, CEO of StriVectin, also expects a closer association between devices and products: "Devices in combination with efficacious topical technology will be something to watch in 2014. I believe it is not about a device or topical skincare company coming up with their own skincare line or devices, respectively, but rather about the ability to join forces with the best in class so as to give the consumer the best [items] available in the device and topical space." CLEANER, MORE NATURAL FORMULATIONS One point on which brands, manufacturers and retailers all agree is that there will be a continued shift toward Continued on page 92 Image courtesy of Ada S. Polla IN THE DECEMBER 2013 ISSUE OF BEAUTY STORE BusIness, I reviewed some of the key developments 2013 brought for the beauty industry. As we celebrate the arrival of 2014, it is time to turn our focus forward. Here is what we can expect to see in this new year, according to various skincare experts.