Beauty Store Business

APR 2018

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66 April 2018 | beautystorebusiness.com Skincare Spotlight D ermatologist Dr. Luigi Polla stresses that aging gracefully starts with applying a facial moisturizer that contains SPF–every single day. "Wear a mois- turizer with SPF every day, and you will never look your age," he says. Teaching consumers about the importance of sun protection and the damage caused to the skin by ultraviolet (UV) rays is essential. You will not only help your customers age gracefully; you will be teaching them about the importance of preventing skin cancer. WHY IT MATTERS UV ray exposure induces free radicals, which leads to damaging the skin, and in particular, premature aging. When exposed to UV radiation, the skin undergoes alterations resulting in inflammation, photoaging and various skin disorders. Typical signs of photoaging include wrinkling, loss of elasticity, increased skin fragility and slower wound healing. Specifically, UVB rays are absorbed by melanin and lead to skin concerns such as redness (sunburn), while also generating additional free radicals, including the very nefarious hydroxyl radical. An SPF 30 sunscreen can block up to 97 percent of UVB radiation, but its important to limit sun exposure between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and reapply every two hours. UVA rays penetrate more deeply into the dermis, increasing the production of free radicals and contributing to long-term cellular damage. Both UVA and UVB induce the activation of enzymes that damage collagen and elastin, too, so broad-spectrum sunscreens are a must. Sunglasses can also prevent eye damage by providing up to 100-percent protection from both UVA and UVB rays. In case this is not enough incentive to educate, sell and recommend products with SPF, keep this in mind: Sunscreen does not only prevent sun damage, it also helps repair existing damage–and keeps skin looking healthy. In a recent study, 32 women used a moisturizer with SPF 30 (a chemical sunscreen blend) every day for a year; skin aging did not accelerate–and it actually improved the overall quality of the skin. "Not only did their skin not age, but we actually saw significant improvement in a number of parameters of photo- aging," says Michael Southall, research director and fellow of global skin biology and pharmacology at Johnson & Johnson Consumer, one of the authors of the study. As reported in MedEsthetics May/June 2017 issue, the most significant improvement was in skin texture and pigmentation, with a 40 to 52 percent improvement over one year; there was also an 18 to 34 percent reduction in fine lines. So recommend a moistur- izer with SPF–not just for protection, but also for correction. THE TYPES OF SUNSCREEN Sunscreen can be classified into three main categories: physical blocks that reflect UV light (for example by using titanium dioxide molecules of a size of 200 to 400 micrometers), physical (mineral) filters that absorb UV light (such as titanium dioxide in nanoparticle size) and chemical filters that absorb UV light. PHYSICAL BLOCKS Physical blocks are compounds with a particle size of about 200 to 400 μm that act by reflecting solar radiation. The most commonly used blocks are titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, mica and silica. While these ingredients are well toler- ated by most skin types since they do not penetrate the skin and the adverse effects they generate are minimal, titanium and zinc oxides create an opaque appearance on the skin and typically leave it looking ashy, which some consumers don't like. Nonetheless, these tend to be the ingredients preferred by brands that position themselves as "natural" or "organic." PHYSICAL FILTERS The most common example of a physical (mineral) filter is titanium oxide, used in particle sizes ranging from 15 to 80 nanometers. These absorb both UVB and UVA rays. Due to The Importance of UV Protection Here's what you need to know about sunscreens. By Ada S. Polla, with research by Anne Pouillot-Grandgirard Courtesy of Ada S. Polla TYPE OF SUNSCREENS Physical blocks Physical filters Chemical filters STRUCTURE Mineral molecule of 200 to 400 μm Mineral molecule at the nano scale 15 to 80 nm Chemical substance FUNCTION Reflect solar radiation Absorb solar radiation Absorb one type of wavelength ADVANTAGES • Well tolerated • Efficient in absorbing UVA and partially UVB • No white deposit • Efficient on UVA and UVB • Stable • Each filter has its own absorption coefficient EXAMPLES • Titanium dioxide • Zinc oxide • Titanium dioxide • Zinc oxide • Benzophenones • PABA • Mexoryl LIMITATIONS • Opaque • Leaves a white deposit on skin • Difficult dispersion • Dryness of skin • Controversy of nanoparticles • Can cause allergic reactions • Can cause photosensitivity • Mix of different products may be required

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