Beauty Store Business

SEP 2015

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22 September 2015 | Skincare Spotlight I AM PUTTING THE FINISHING TOUCHES ON THIS column the eve of Father's Day, which seems particu- larly timely. Indeed, this month we are exploring men's skin care. "Men's skin care." Is that really necessary? This is a question I hear often. After all, why can't skin care be unisex? Is skin care specific to men needed? Should it be? Can't men just use good skincare products for women? Or should we have men look for different types of products when it comes to skin care? There are two ways to answer this question— physiologically and psychologically. FIRST, SOME CONTEXT We have definitely witnessed changing attitudes towards men's grooming and skin care. The term "metrosexual" came and went. What we are left with is a growing awareness among male consumers that skin care is essential and nothing to be ashamed of. We have moved beyond soap and aftershave. As noted in the June issue of DERMASCOPE Magazine, New Product Development Group reports that 90% of men 18 and older in the United States use some type of grooming product. More specifically (page 68 of the issue): • One out of three men says he is concerned about dry skin and signs of aging. • Four out of 10 men use a facial cleanser daily instead of soap or shower gels. • One out of four men use a scrub. • One out of five men use antiaging products and eye- contour gels. • Multiple product use is still low, and an opportunity for growth. Statista ( has estimated the size of the global male-grooming market from 2012 to 2020. In 2016, it estimates that the global male-grooming market is worth about $(U.S.) 21.4 billion. MORE ON THOSE MEN … There are physiological differences between men's and women's skin. Men tend to have oiler skin than women as they have more active sebaceous glands. Therefore, men's skincare products tend to have a lighter texture and are more oil-free. Moreover, men do not like a dewy look so their moisturizers need to be different from women's moisturizers. Men also have more hair follicles than women (i.e., a mustache or a beard), and their hair follicles impede the penetration of very small plant actives to where they need to go. Therefore, extracts in men's products are often more highly concentrated. In addition, men have different sensibilities; they don't want to smell like "a girl." Thus, male skincare products tend to have more masculine aromas. Whether you create a men's section or highlight spe- cific products throughout your beauty-retail brick and mortar and/or online, offering men's products is clearly key to capturing this consumer. BRAND CATEGORIES & KEY PRODUCT TYPES Brands abound, and fall into a few categories: • Unisex brands that appeal to male consumers such as Kiehl's, Dermalogica, Malin & Goetz and Murad, for example • Leading women's brands that have developed men's offerings, including Clarins and Clinique • Leading men-only skincare lines such as Anthony Logistics (although I hear it may be launching wom- en's products), ZIRH, The Art of Shaving, Jack Black, Billy Jealousy, Urth and Grooming Lounge The key product types to look for are: • Cleansers: Men love active cleansers so look for some that contain enzymes or acids such as glycolic or salicylic. • Exfoliators: This is the type of product that men embrace easily perhaps because of the perception of the efficacy factor. • Shaving Products: This is a no-brainer and requires no explanation. • Moisturizers: Multitasking products are the best option for men. Look for products that heal the skin post-shaving while addressing signs of aging. Remember that "oil-free" are magical words when speaking about moisturizers to men. • Eye Products: This is the area that will show signs of aging first. And while it might seem a more "femi- nine concern," eye-contour gels are a hot category. Focus on products that target fine lines and wrinkles, but also puffiness and under-eye bags. I often get asked about price points. I find that men are willing to spend on themselves. The concern about price points more often comes when a woman is buying grooming products for a man. MALE BEHAVIOR & SKIN CARE Wooing the male consumer, however, is not just a ques- tion of having the right products. It is also a question of behavior. Here I have to give credit to my mother, Dr. Barbara Polla. She has a fascination for men, and, in particular, their beauty and grooming habits. So she The Elusive Male Beauty Consumer What brand categories are available? Key product types? Plus, four key insights for retailers— as well as answers to other questions. by Ada S. Polla Photo courtesy of Ada S. Polla; photo by Kelli Dailey, Third Line Studios Look for products that heal the skin post-shaving while addressing signs of aging. Remember that "oil-free" are magical words when speaking about moisturizers to men.

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