Beauty Store Business

MAR 2015

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Page 39 of 79

38 March 2015 | Skincare Spotlight I HAVE FACED THIS QUESTION MANY TIMES, AND I am sure that estheticians, skincare retailers and beauty professionals overall do too: Why do I need a night cream instead of being able to use the same moisturizer twice a day? Is the need for a night cream a true need, or a marketing myth meant to sell more products? BEAUTY SLEEP Before delving into the mystery that is a night cream, let's look at sleep. After all, if there is something special needed topically for the skin during sleep, it has to do with the physiological effects of sleep on the skin. We know that insomnia has damaging effects on the human body, including the skin, and accelerates the overall aging process. Poor sleep is known to raise cortisol levels and elevate blood sugar, which causes tissue damage via infl ammation. Growth hormones are also adversely affected by a lack of sleep. As was recently reported in GCI magazine, a study performed by Estée Lauder at University Hospitals Case Medical Center in Cleveland demonstrated that sleep quality impacts skin function and aging. Specifi cally at the level of the skin, poor sleep has been linked to a disrup- tion of the moisture skin barrier and UV damage repair. Indeed, sleep-deprived women show signs of premature skin aging and a decrease in their skin's ability to recover after sun exposure. Furthermore, poor-quality sleepers also show increased signs of intrinsic skin aging (as op- posed to environmental aging), such as fi ne lines, uneven pigmentation and reduced elasticity. "Our study is the fi rst to conclusively demonstrate that inadequate sleep is correlated with reduced skin health and accelerated skin aging. Sleep-deprived women show signs of premature skin aging and a decrease in their skin's ability to recover after sun exposure," explains Dr. Elma Baron, director of the study. Dr. Daniel Yarosh, senior vice president, basic science research, R&D, at Estée Lauder, adds: "This research shows for the fi rst time that poor sleep quality can accelerate signs of skin aging and weaken the skin's ability to repair itself at night." All of this indicates that deep, sound sleep can be in- duced by certain botanicals, which would be one reason why a night cream might differ from a day cream. DAY VERSUS NIGHT DIFFERENCES There are obvious differences between day and night, and this includes when looking at the skin. These differences can be classifi ed into three broad categories, namely physiological, environmental and behavioral differences. PHYSIOLOGICAL DIFFERENCES This skin's circadian rhythm represents physiological differences. One of the most researched circadian rhythms associated with the skin is sebum production, which is shown to peak at midday and significantly decrease during the night. In addition: • Transepidermal water loss has also been shown to peak in the evening hours. • The skin's temperature is highest during the night. (This is linked to increased blood fl ow.) • And the skin is more acidic during the night. All of these physiological characteristics indicate that the skin is potentially more delicate and prone to infl am- mation or irritation at night. ENVIRONMENTAL DIFFERENCES There is obviously the absence of UV rays during the night. This is important when using products or ingre- dients known to make the skin photosensitive (and one of the reasons why retinol-based products, for example, are recommended for evening use). Furthermore, environmental stresses, such as pollu- tion and extreme temperatures and temperature fl uctua- tions, are less relevant during the night. BEHAVIORAL DIFFERENCES We do not wear makeup, drink alcohol, smoke tobacco or engage in other stressful behaviors during the night. This suggests that the skin gets a reprieve from the assaults of the day, and thus is able to focus on its repair processes and repair the various damages caused during the day. Once again, all of these differences indicate that a different moisturizer in the morning versus the evening is indeed scientifi cally sound and not a mere marketing ploy. THINGS TO LOOK FOR IN A NIGHT MOISTURIZER When deciding on quality nighttime moisturizers, here are a few things to keep in mind. Look for creams containing botanicals that have sooth- ing, relaxing, anti-anxiety, sleep-inducing properties to help the body into deep sleep. (The benefi cial effects to the skin here are less about the botanicals themselves, and more a matter of deeper sleep, which can be enhanced by such botanicals.) Look for lavender, various herbs used in Chinese medicine (e.g., wild jujube seed, bupleurum root, senega snakeroot). The skin's ability to repair itself peaks at night, which means that creams containing repairing ingredients Beauty Sleep: Myth or Necessity? Learn about its physiological effects on skin and why you should be selling night creams. by Ada S. Polla Photo courtesy of Ada S. Polla Physiological characteristics indicate that the skin is potentially more delicate and prone to infl ammation/irritation at night.

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