Beauty Store Business

SEP 2014

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Page 53 of 83

52 September 2014 | Skincare Spotlight WHILE I OFTEN HEAR OF WOMEN WHO DO NOT wash their faces before they go to bed, I also often see the opposite, namely men and women who wash, cleanse and scrub too much, thinking that "squeaky clean" is the goal. As is often the case, a right middle is the best. As you recommend various cleansers, cleansing tools and exfoliators, here are some things to keep in mind. CLEANSING The facial cleansing category has been growing steadily in recent years, with sales of cleansing liquids, creams, bars and wipes reaching $1.8 billion in 2012, up 4% from the prior year and more than 7% from 2010, according to Euromonitor (as quoted in The Wall Street Journal, Oct. 22, 2013). The last few years have also seen the meteoric rise of facial cleansing brushes, a new category launched by Clarisonic, now part of L'Oréal. And Clinique is offering its first electronic skincare device in depart- ment stores as of mid-August (as reported by CEW Beauty Insider, June 30, 2014). Typically, facial cleanser will fall into various catego- ries: foaming cleansers, creamy cleansers, cleansing oils and cleansing towelettes. Keep the following in mind as you recommend cleansers to your customers and teach them the optimal cleansing routine: 1. Unless you are suffering from a specific skin condition, such as acne, cleansing your face in the evening to remove makeup, dirt, sweat and pollution from your day is typically enough. There is no need to cleanse twice daily. 2. It is, however, essential to cleanse at night. Leav- ing makeup on overnight will lead to blackheads and clogged pores, and needless to say any nighttime moistur- izer or other skincare product applied without cleansing will not penetrate to where they can be beneficial. 3. While many consumers, in particular men and teenagers, link the efficacy of a cleanser to foaming, a cleanser that does not foam can be just as effective. If used too frequently, and if not well formulated, the surfactants in foaming cleansers can strip the stratum corneum of its natural sebum and lead to excessive skin dryness. 4. The ideal application technique for any cleanser (or cleansing towelette) is light circular motions with your fingertips. There is no need to scrub your face while washing, in particular, if suffering from acne or other irritated spots. 5. Just like brushing one's teeth, it is helpful for consumers to know how long they should cleanse for. One minute is the recommended ideal in terms of mas- saging a cleanser into your skin, as that will ensure that you cover your entire face, including the edges of the hairline as well as your neck. 6. Rinsing your face with cold water after cleansing is neither good nor bad for your skin, and will not tighten your pores. Lukewarm water is typically the optimal choice, as water any hotter can lead to irritation or dilate your capillaries. It is essential, however, to rinse thoroughly; leftover cleanser will lead to clogged pores. 7. Just like being gentle with your fingers during cleansing, it is essential to be gentle when drying your skin. Use a towel to gently pat your face dry. Rubbing your skin with the said towel can lead to irritation. And make sure your towel is clean! 8. The goal of cleansing is not a feeling of tightness in the skin, which indicates dryness. The goal is com- fortable, supple, cleansed skin. EXFOLIATION We all know we should cleanse our face every evening; we also all know about the benefits of exfoliation. Since the ancient Egyptian times, various methods of exfoliation have been used to remove dead skin cells, soften and brighten the skin, and maintain the skin's overall health. However, just like in cleansing, the tendency can be to over-exfoliate. Many consumers believe that acne, age spots, dull skin and other such skin conditions can be solved by scrubbing harder, more vigorously, more frequently. However, there is such a thing as over-exfoliation. Let's review the basics of exfoliation: Exfoliation is the process of ridding the skin of its outermost super- ficial layer, mostly dead cells, to increase its health, luminosity and brightness. Exfoliation can also stimulate the activity of fibroblasts and collagen. Exfoliation of the skin can be achieved either mechanically or chemically. 1. Mechanical Exfoliation This type of exfoliation involves the use of an abra- sive product. This can be as gentle as washing one's face with a washcloth (the cloth is slightly abrasive) to using a Clarisonic brush to a microdermabrasion treat- ment using crystals. In between is the use of an exfoli- ating scrub containing natural beads, such as cranberry beads or salt or sugar. On the body, the use of sponges and loofahs also serve to exfoliate the skin. 2. Chemical Exfoliation Chemical exfoliation does not include an abrasive product. There is no physical scrubbing action, but rather a chemical reaction. This type of exfoliation involves chemicals, most often acids and enzymes. Chemical peels (which can be superficial, medium or deep) are the most common form of chemical exfoliation. When recommending an exfoliating product to your customers, whether a physical scrub or an at-home peel, Cleansing, Exfoliating— & When It's Too Much Of Both Help your customers apply the right balance to keeping clean, healthy skin. by Ada S. Polla Image courtesy of Ada S. Polla One minute is the recommended ideal in terms of massaging a cleanser into your skin.

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