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106 August 2014 | beautystorebusiness.com Skincare Spotlight II THE TERM "OIL-FREE" HAS LONG BEEN AMONG the most prized words used in skin care; in particular, when recommending products to younger, oilier skin types. However, not all oils are evil. Not only do oils not break out the skin, they have a myriad of therapeutic properties. Indeed, one of the most feared skincare ingredients—oil—was used by Cleopatra to alleviate the drying effect of the desert on her skin. Given the hype over facial (and hair and body) oils over the last couple of years, it is likely that a number of facial oils are sitting on your shelves. Here are some things to keep in mind when recommending this type of product. SEBUM IS A NATURAL COMPONENT OF SKIN Imagine youthful skin: It is plump, dewy and healthy looking. It is filled with natural sebum, as our sebaceous glands are active and productive. As we age, unfor- tunately, our sebaceous glands tire and become lazier (as much else in our skin and beyond). Thus, they pro- duce less sebum and skin becomes dryer. (This is why more mature skin tends to be dryer, in case you ever wondered.) Remind your customers that skin naturally produces oil—as such, oil cannot be inherently evil. WHAT IS A FACIAL OIL? Typically, the first ingredient (the base) of a moisturizer or cream is water. Oils differ in that there is no water in the formulation. Rather, the product is oil-based. Facial oils will typically be formulated with either a single oil (for example, Josie Maran 100% pure argan oil) or a combina- tion of various oils (for example, Rodin's Olio Lusso). Recommend a facial oil the way you would recom- mend a vitamin supplement: It is something extra for your skin and doesn't need to replace your customer's existing regimen. Add an oil a few times per week to start, or seasonally. (Most consumers will be less weary of oils during the cold, dry winter months than during the warmer, more humid summers.) WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF THIS TYPE OF PRODUCT? The first benefit of any oil, as is most likely evident to most consumers, is to nourish the skin, replenishing lipids and moisture. However, facial oils will have a number of additional benefits depending on the type of oil used, ranging from antioxidant to anti-inflammatory to sebum regulating. Here are some of the most commonly used oils and their specific benefits: Jojoba oil: Jojoba oil is the go-to oil for oilier skin types. Jojoba oil will nourish the skin but will also help to regulate sebum. Jojoba oil also has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, which will help to alleviate breakouts. Rose oil: This oil is another oil to consider for combi- nation or acne-prone skin types. Indeed, it is known for its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory benefits and has astringent properties. Argan oil: Pressed from the nut of the argan tree, which only grows in Morocco, this oil is packed with vitamin E and fatty acids that give it healing, condition- ing and repairing properties. Sweet almond oil: This oil is rich in vitamins A, B and E, and is known for its calming properties. Look for this ingredient to help soothe skin irritation and inflammation. Grapeseed oil: Grapeseeds are packed with anti- oxidants, including resveratrol, making this oil an antiag- ing powerhouse. Rosehip seed oil: This oil (rose canina) is derived from the small fruits that sit behind the rose flower and contains high levels of vitamins C and A, two ingredients known to help fight and minimize fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. Avocado oil: Avocado oil is high in sterolin, an extract that has been shown to facilitate the reduction in the appearance of age spots. Coconut oil: This is one of the most hydrating oils, making it particularly suited to dry skin. Rich in fatty acids, this oil will make dull skin glow. WILL FACIAL OILS CAUSE BREAKOUTS OR PIMPLES? Remember the lipids dissolve lipids. This means, per- haps counter-intuitively, that oils are actually able to help regulate sebum production, thus mattifying oilier skin types. Well-formulated facial oils will not clog pores, cause whiteheads or blackheads. On the contrary, the oil will bind to excess sebum in the skin and help draw it out. WHAT ABOUT COMBINATION AND OILY SKIN TYPES? Not all facial oils are created equal. Indeed, some are lighter (even promoting themselves as "shine-free") while some will be thicker and heavier. When recom- mending a facial oil for a younger client, or someone with oilier skin types, look for these lighter versions. Avoid recommending facial oil to anyone suffering from severe or cystic acne, including adult acne. AND WHAT OF CLEANSING OILS? For someone who is not yet ready to jump on the facial oil bandwagon, a cleansing oil is the prefect way to Facial Oils: Liquid Gold Or Greasy Nightmare? Tackle customersÕ facial-oil questions and recommendations with savvy. by Ada S. Polla Image courtesy of Ada S. Polla Given the hype over facial oils over the last couple of years, it is likely that a number of facial oils are sitting on your shelves. S k i n c a r e S p o t l i g h t N o 2 _ 8 1 4 . i n d d 1 0 6 Skincare Spotlight No2_814.indd 106 6 / 2 6 / 1 4 4 : 5 5 P M 6/26/14 4:55 PM