Beauty Store Business

AUG 2013

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foods, etc.]—with unhealthy skin, etc.," explains Petersen. "They also say when breast-feeding that gluten won't go through to the baby, but we've seen it happen. So there are a lot of areas of contention and discussion. I've always based it on what I see clinically. I can see where the science comes from: standard skin, standard gluten molecule—OK too big. But, it's just not standard skin. That's really the thing to understand. "Your skin ingests the way your gut ingests. If the gluten is being absorbed, it doesn't matter whether you eat it or it's going through your skin," contends Petersen. Arguably, it's still too early in science's understanding of gluten's impact on our bodies to gather a consensus from the medical and scientific communities. Nevertheless, consumers are experiencing enough impact from gluten in general to expect sensitivity from manufacturers; and may even be perusing your aisles in hope that you too have caught on to their expectations. So, exactly who is driving the demand for gluten-free beauty and personalcare products? population has the gene for celiac disease. It's estimated that probably close to that number has the gene for gluten sensitivity," explains Petersen. Gluten sensitivity presents itself in people whose bodies pose identical symptoms to celiac disease when they encounter gluten, but without the immune reaction that damages the small intestine lining. So, the symptoms of gluten sensitivity include headaches, mental fogginess, diarrhea, bloating, joint pain and so on. For many people, their symptoms may not appear until days after they've consumed gluten. There are also people who've simply noticed that their ability to function It's estimated that a minimum of 2 million Americans have celiac disease. THE GLUTEN INTOLERANT AND THE PERCEPTION OF HEALTHFULNESS It's estimated that a minimum of 2 million Americans have celiac disease. It is also believed that many people don't realize they have it. Dermatitis herpetiformis is also activated by gluten. People with this chronic condition deal with an immune reaction that targets specific areas of the skin. So, people suffering from dermatitis herpetiformis deal with bumps and blisters that include severe itching and burning sensations. They may also suffer from symptoms common to celiac disease. Again, gluten is the trigger. "Currently, the hard science says [that the American population of people with celiac disease] is 1% increasing to 4% with age—and that's the most conservative [conclusion]. The most conservative estimate [of those with] gluten sensitivity is 10%. However, 30% of the suffers following gluten consumption. These people have not been diagnosed with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity; they've simply noticed the pattern of burdensome symptoms that follow their gluten consumption. Let's also not forget the healthconscious folks who pride themselves in retaining good health and exercising disease prevention. For many of them, their interest in a product may simply peak when they see the gluten-free product label. Though it is important to note that "gluten-free" on a label doesn't always equate to an entirely "healthful" product, as other less healthful ingredients could also be a part of the formulation of some products. Nevertheless, from the person with celiac disease to the gluten sensitive, as well as the cases of dermatitis herpetiformis, along with the health-conscious consumer and those dealing with other 52 August 2013 | beautystorebusiness.com health issues, all of these profiles are your gluten-free beauty and personalcare customers. "It's going mainstream right now. There are people who don't have celiac disease who are following a gluten-free diet," affirms Kloberdanz. "They do this for other symptoms, such as aching muscles and neuropathy. They just feel better on a gluten-free diet. It's becoming mainstream." And the demand shows. THE DEMAND The demand for gluten-free beauty products is no doubt stemming from the increased diagnosis of celiac disease and gluten sensitivity, as well as increased awareness of the two by the public, along with the greater interest in natural and organic offerings overall. As consumers, now more than ever, have significant influence over the product offerings that are being churned out of manufacturing facilities, they expect even the nuances in their product needs and preferences to be met by brands and retailers alike. Subsequently, the expectation for gluten-free beauty and personal-care products is growing, and businesses are noticing. "As awareness of the importance of what you put in your body has expanded to what you put on your body, glutenfree offerings have become increasingly important," says Susan Griffin-Black, founder and co-CEO of EO Products, which produces natural, organic and 100% gluten-free personal-care products. "I would say the demand has more than doubled over the last 10 years. When we started, in 1995, it was called "wheat free," and the food offerings, as well as personal-care were very limited." Miles concurs, saying derma e has seen demand increase a mini- mum 20% to 30% in the last three years; while Karen Behnke, founder of Juice Beauty, which offers organic and gluten-free beauty and personalcare products, attests to a 5% to 10% increase from a 0% demand a few years ago, amongst its main retailers: ULTA Beauty, Whole Foods Market and Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy. "Retailers need to be aware of the numbers that are growing," says Stacey Stilts, owner of Los Angeles-based beauty retailer Green Line Beauty, which specializes in offering its customers only natural and organic cosmetics and skincare products. She notes the millions of Americans suffering from celiac disease and the more than 1 million people on a gluten-free diet and avoiding foods with gluten. A veteran in the natural-organic personal-care category with more than 20 years of experience, Stilts says that she knew she would cater to the glutenfree demographic when she opened her beauty store in 2009. "I wanted to create a safe haven for people to be able to come into a boutique and have a knowledgeable staff. Green Line Beauty has always provided glutenfree cosmetics and skin care," adds Stilts.

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