Beauty Store Business

AUG 2019

Beauty Store Business provides solutions for better retailing! New products, industry news, savvy business moves and important trends affecting both brick-and-mortar and online retailers are included in each issue.

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40 August 2019 | pregnancy. Actress Melissa McCarthy proudly rubbed CBD oil on her eet beore walking the red carpet at this year's Oscars, so as to stay calm and comy in her heels. Such celebrity endorsements and general demand have even prompted CVS, Walgreens and other retailers to start stocking CBD-inused health and beauty products, but experts are calling or scientiically validated research. "A customer recently told me she needed our lip balm to help cure her overarching anxiety," says Claudia Mata, coounder o Vertly, a high-end cannabis beauty line that launched in 2017 and is now available online and in stores like Neiman Marcus and Barneys. "I explained that while CBD can mitigate certain symptoms, it shouldn't be considered a magic potion or instantly dispelling stress." Inlammation in our bodies can oten maniest as redness, pain and swelling (and, i let untreated, may contribute to heart disease or stroke); health experts agree that cannabidiol may help to counter those responses. "CBD is known to possess anti-inlammatory properties," says Joshua Zeichner, MD, director o cosmetology and clinical research in dermatology at New York's Mount Sinai Hospital. Applied topically, it may minimize acial lush or bloating. It's also a sebostatic, or agent that inhibits the growth o sebum-producing cells, making it an eective acne-ighter. A 2014 NCBI study suggests that CBD may help suppress breakouts by regulating oil production. "Less internal inlammation and improved general skin health are the biggest beauty beneits o CBD," Mata says. "However, it's important to note that this ingredient unctions best when used in tandem with other healing plant extracts." Case in point: Ater Mata scalded her mouth with a bite o too-hot pizza, she calmed it with Vertly CBD-Inused Lip Butter. "The pain, swelling and redness subsided–but that was also due in part to the coconut oil, cacao butter and jojoba also ound in our balm, not just the CBD alone," Mata says. She likens it to taking a multivitamin or consuming a comprehensive whole-oods diet–CBD itsel is not a silver bullet. It is rich in natural ats, including a healthy array o omega atty acids, which might explain why it's popping up in acial cleansers and serums. "CBD's skin-hydrating beneits may minimize the appearance o wrinkles and ine lines," Dr. Zeichner says. "Fats soothe outer skin layers, which likewise accounts or its ability to treat conditions like eczema and psoriasis." Some companies claim CBD is a powerul antioxidant–stronger even than vitamins C and E–but Dr. Zeichner believes more studies are needed to support that assertion. When it comes to hair, Wachs ound that a ew drops o CBD oil made tresses sot and smooth. So he launched Emera, a proessional cannabidiol- inused haircare line. "Because CBD contains amino acids and is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, C, D and E, along with magnesium, potassium and essential atty acids like omega 3, 6 and 9, it helps orm collagen, which nourishes scalp tissue," Wachs explains. "Additional advantages include improved hair elasticity and strength, allowing ollicles to expand aster or healthy growth." PURCHASE POWER Although CBD has become beauty's newest star ingredient, it can be tough to discern high-caliber CBD products rom those that are less eicacious. "Quality-control standards don't yet exist," Timmons laments. In the meantime, Wachs urges both proessionals and consumers to purchase products certiied by third-party quality controls. (Cosmetic Ingredient Review assesses and publishes saety reports.) "Earthly Body uses third-party testing on each oering, to ensure it contains the correct amount o CBD and no trace THC," Wachs explains. "Results are crucial in showing customers they're getting what they pay or." Mata recommends checking the total milligrams o CBD contained in an item. "I a number isn't disclosed on the packaging, it could mean the brand only added trace amounts or marketing purposes," Mata says. "Though CBD is popular, it's not a cheap ingredient." TO BE OR NOT TO CBD? Although CBD's legalities, regulatory rules and beneits are still being determined, it provides a great business opportunity and way to serve your customers who want it today. Spas, salons and beauty retailers will have to decide i they want to take a "watchul waiting" position or jump in now. I big retailers like Sephora, Ulta, Walgreens and CVS have all gotten on board, it's unlikely the CBD genie is going back in the bottle. I you decide to carry CBD products or services, remember to careully check state hemp programs and be cognizant o overstating beneits or selling products that make unounded medical claims. Choose quality CBD products rom reputable manuacturers with third-party testing. More research, hemp programs and FDA regulation will help deine the CBD market more clearly in the months ahead. ■ CBD-inused Emera haircare products Inused with 150 milligrams o CBD, along with proprietary arnica oil, cooling aloe vera and various plant oils and butters, Vertly Relie Lotion is a spot treatment or achy body parts in need o soothing. From top: courtesy o Emera Haircare, Vertly

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