Beauty Store Business

AUG 2019

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38 August 2019 | beautystorebusiness.com MARIJUANA AND HEMP DIFFERENCES Hemp and marijuana both come rom the Cannabis sativa species o plants. Conusion endures regarding their similar natures, but here's the truth: The cousins are dierent varieties. Compared side by side, one can readily spot dissimilarities, especially in the shapes o their leaves: Hemp grows tall with skinny leaves, whereas marijuana has broad leaves and a bushier build. More important, their biological structures are crucially distinct. Marijuana contains between 15 to 40 percent THC (tetrahy- drocannabinol), the compound responsible or inducing psychoactive eects, while hemp has a very low THC concentration o .3 percent or less. In other words, hemp can't get you high. For that reason, it's long been legal in most parts o the world, grown primarily or industrial purposes including clothing, paper and biouel production. Stateside, the story was historically dierent. Until recently, the U.S. Drug Enorcement Agency considered all cannabis varieties, including hemp, to be Schedule 1 controlled substances, on par with narcotics like heroin and LSD. LEGAL AND REGULATORY COMPLICATION The 2018 Farm Bill changed hemp's illicit stature by removing it (and its derivatives) rom the list o controlled substances and legalizing its production as an agricultural commodity, so long as each plant contains no greater than .3 percent THC. The bill eectively made hemp-derived CBD (under the THC limit) legal at the ederal level. But there's a catch: Each state is let to determine its own legalized hemp program–or the cultivation, processing, manuacturing and sale o hemp and hemp-derived products, including CBD. I a state wants, it can choose to opt out o a hemp program completely. Not suprisingly, state laws regarding hemp vary considerably. For example, Colorado and Oregon are exceedingly hemp riendly while Idaho and South Dakota prohibit CBD cultivation and the use o CBD generally. CBD cultivation also remains illegal in Connecticut, Georgia, Iowa, Louisiana, Mississippi, Ohio, and Texas. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) brings another layer o complication to the CBD marketplace. At the time the Farm Bill passed, the FDA issued a statement reiterating that the bill's passage does not aect the FDA's "current authority to regulate products containing cannabis or cannabis-derived compounds," granted by the 1938 Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, and that it will "treat products containing cannabis or cannabis-derived compounds as any other FDA-regulated products." It's important to note that under the Act, only ood and drugs require premarket approval rom the FDA–cosmetics are exempt. Due to the prolieration o CBD ingestibles and topicals on the market since the Farm Bill's passage, the FDA held a public hearing to assess CBD's saety and eicacy on May 31, 2019. Jennier Fisher Briggs, partner and team lead or the Cannabis industry group at law irm Duane Morris, LLP, in San Francisco, was present at the hearing. According to Fisher Briggs, "The FDA is more concerned with saety regarding ingestibles; the concern or beauty is primarily ocused on how things are labeled– and any potential medical claims." In other words, both manuacturers and retailers o beauty topicals should not overstate CBD's eects or that it treats any type o disease, which constitutes a medical claim. "Currently, the FDA has said CBD and cannabis-derived ingredients still have to comply with all o the applicable requirements o cosmetics. A product cannot be used i it is adulterated or misbranded," she adds. Despite hemp's quasi-contraband legal and regulatory status, CBD- steeped products or hair, skin and body have become ubiquitous. According to Vote Hemp, a group dedicated to the crop's marketplace promotion, hemp plots jumped rom 9,800 acres in 2016 to a whopping 78,000 acres in 2018. "Banks, inancial institutions and credit-card processors may now handle CBD transactions," says Kevin Wachs, CEO and ounder o Earthly Body, which has produced hemp-oil based hair and skin care since 1994. "As research into CBD grows, more people will come to understand its beneits, leading to continued innovation." On the lipside, because there are ew scientiic studies o CBD (due to its previous illicit classiication), new research could one day come to deine CBD as a product that aects bodily unctions–thereby classiying it as a drug that's subject to FDA regulation. While that is more likely to happen with ingestible CBD products than topical beauty products, the reality remains that this ingredient's uture is still being decided. "Most o my customers call it the Wild West market," says Gay Timmons laughing, president and ounder o Oh, Oh Organic, a company that supplies organic ingredients–including, now, CBD–to cosmetics proessionals. This all brings up an important question: Is hemp worth the hype? FACT OR FICTION CBD boasts various inarguable beneits. Our bodies contain certain receptors known collectively as the endocannabinoid system. I that name sounds amiliar, it's or a good reason. This system was christened or the cannabis plant that led to its discovery. In 1988, researchers accidentally observed that THC reacted with a previously unknown (and heretoore unnamed) cannabinoid receptor in the brain responsible or stimulating things such as memory and emotions. Further exploration uncovered another important cannabinoid that scientists called anandamide, derived rom the Sanskrit word or divine joy, due to the physiological responses it induces–anyone who's ever elt a runner's high is experiencing (among other things) a rush o anandamide. I you picture the body as a machine, wherein the brain serves as a motherboard and the immune system is its iltration, endocannabinoids are the wires that keep both operational. But sometimes machines break down. When that happens–when bodies can't naturally produce adequate amounts o endocannabinoids–we may experience health problems, rom anxiety to inlammation to epilepsy. That's where CBD may help. CBD (like THC) helps support healthy anandamide levels, and thus may serve as a mood elevator. Devotees swear by its Zen-promoting proper- ties when ingested orally, via a gummy or drinkable botanical, or when applied topically in oils, sprays and balms. Kim Kardashian recently made headlines ater announcing plans to throw a CBD-themed baby shower or her ourth child, because she wanted to combat the stress o surrogate CBD BEAUTY AND WELLNESS BENEFITS • CBD interacts with our endocannabinoid systems and may help combat pain, anxiety and inflammation. • Possessing anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, CBD may help quell acne, psoriasis and eczema, as well as improve overall skin health. • Rich in vitamins and fatty acids, CBD supports healthy hair and skin. AT A GLANCE Continued from p. 34

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