Beauty Store Business

JAN 2019

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58 January 2019 | beautystorebusiness.com Le images from top: Dhoxax; macroworld; DmitriyKazitsyn; anna1311/gettyimages.com. Right images from top: courtesy of African Botanics, Herbivore Botanicals, Korres, Juice Beauty "Consumers love the nongreasy texture of our African Botanics Neroli Infused Marula Oil," enthuses the company's cofounder Julia Noik. "It absorbs quickly, protecting skin from transepidermal water loss, leaving a healthy glow." MARULA Orchid Oil from Herbivore Botanicals is beloved for its hydrating features and luscious floral smell. ORCHID "Boosted with natural lipids, our innovative Korres Black Pine Sleeping Oil visibly plumps skin to promote firmness and elasticity," shares the company's cofounder Lena Korres. "The experience of waking up to supple, younger-looking skin is pure luxury." PINE MARULA It's true that good things come in little packages. The yellow fruit of the marula tree, which grows in Africa and Madagascar, is chock-full of vitamins–most notably vitamin C. (A single serving contains approximately eight times the amount found in an orange.) Native Bantu peoples have relied on the fruit's nutrients for centuries. Animals like it too, though for slightly different reasons. Elephants, ostriches, warthogs and baboons have been reported to become intoxicated after imbibing fermented marula. The Good: Along with its aforementioned, off-the-charts vitamin C concentration that brightens skin to counter hyperpigmentation, oil extracted from its walnut-size seeds is high in flavonoids and vitamin E. Together, the trio reduces redness, guards against inflammation and fights to repair free-radical damage caused by sun exposure or pollution. Its omega-6 (linoleic) and omega-9 (oleic) essential fatty acids effectively seal in moisture and serve as dry skin's ticket to soothing hydration. And, it manages to infuse richness sans grease, which might be marula's most valuable trick. "The oil's inherently light texture absorbs quickly into skin to repair the dermis barrier without clogging pores or imparting a heavy residue," says Julia Noik, cofounder of African Botanics. The Bad: A few cases of marula-related skin rashes have been reported among users with tree-nut allergies. Recommend that customers do a patch test first to be sure they're in the clear. The Bottom Line: This is the best oil for combatting hyperpigmentation. PINE Pine trees arguably contain the elixir of youth. Most of these coniferous trees live between 100 to 1,000 years–though the oldest, named Methuselah, is 4,850 years old and still thriving in California. When pressed, pinus needles produce a clear to pale-yellow oil that might be a veritable panacea. Its benefits are vast. Before the advent of cold medicines, pine served as a natural nasal decongestant and pain-relieving ointment. It's effective at repelling insects, cleaning household surfaces or freshening a space gone stale. After all, who doesn't love the smell of Christmas trees? The Good: The same properties that make pine good at nixing stains and killing odor serve to aid the health of skin. The oil is packed with natural antioxidants that neutralize pesky free radicals and harmful toxins. It's both antiseptic and antifungal, so it can fight bacteria and germs. As a natural toner, it clears pores of oxidized sebaceous oils that are to blame for blemishes like blackheads and acne. After cleansing, it promotes healing. Pine extract stimulates blood flow, encouraging the growth of tissue and cells, which translates to brighter complexions. The Bad: There's no doubt pine is powerful. But, if improperly diluted, it may irritate the skin and its mucus membranes it first set out to cleanse and heal. The Bottom Line: Pine is the best oil to double as a cleanser. ROSEHIP To find rosehip, look for a berry-shaped fruit growing below the petals of a rose. Most are red or orange, but they can appear dark purple in a few plant species. Traditionally rosehip was dried for herbal tea or boiled to make jam, jelly and syrup. It contains carotenoids–the same organic pigment that turns carrots orange–and beta carotene, both of which are being studied for their possible cancer-fighting links. The Good: Victoria's Secret model Miranda Kerr caused a stir when she called rosehip her favorite 2018 antiaging serum. Maybe that's due to its high content of nourishing essential fatty acids plus vitamins A and C. "The combination of these elements helps to improve the appearance of skin tone, texture and pigmentation, while infusing moisture," says Karen Behnke, founder of Juice Beauty. Retinoic acid present in vitamin A further stimulates the growth of fibroblasts, those essential collagen-producing cells. Facial scars fade while skin regains its elasticity. The Bad: Acne-prone skin, beware: This oil has been known to further inflame already-clogged pores. The Bottom Line: It's the best oil to promote younger-looking skin. ORCHID Its appearance is unmistakable. No one could look at an orchid and confuse it with another plant. Notoriously nitpicky, orchids have a reputation as challenging flowers to cultivate and keep alive. That's due in part to their nature: These fragrant beauties thrive in warm, humid climates–tough conditions to reproduce at home. Some are so sensitive that they bloom for only several hours. Some so rare that they've sold for upwards of $200,000. In total, about 28,000 known orchid species exist, making them among the most abundant families of flowering plants. The Good: Western cultures are familiar with the scent of orchids in perfume, but in Asia, the plant has long been a popular skin and haircare staple. That's because their leaves contain a pigment called anthocyanin, a type of flavonoid we can thank for the richly saturated hues of red, blue and purple plants. More importantly for skin, anthocyanins (like other flavonoids) contain antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial agents. They battle free radicals to balance pigmentation while minimizing oxidative stress. The extract is also a natural humectant that draws and locks in moisture. Wrinkles and fine lines relax when skin's smoothness is restored. The Bad: Money, honey. The high cost of extracting and producing orchid oil can make this product feel prohibitive. The Bottom Line: It's the best oil for reducing facial inflammation. "Those concerned with dry skin, fine lines and wrinkles will love Juice Beauty's Stem Cellular Li ing Neck Cream," promises Juice Beauty's CEO Karen Behnke. "It absorbs quickly to even out tone." ROSEHIP

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