Beauty Store Business

JAN 2019

Beauty Store Business provides solutions for better retailing! New products, industry news, savvy business moves and important trends affecting both brick-and-mortar and online retailers are included in each issue.

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16 January 2019 | beautystorebusiness.com lacked the proper lighting and color rendition for an end user to really see themselves accurately," he says. "We knew we needed to create a space with a greater ratio of indirect lighting in order to create a brighter ambiance to fill the space with a glow." Jules Gim, associate vice president at Callison RTKL in Baltimore, agrees that the beauty consumer herself must be at the center of lighting design. "With beauty stores, we choose to focus on how the customer looks," she says. "It's one of the differences compared to a lot of stores where it's focused on the merchandise–whereas with beauty stores, you want to make sure that the lighting is very flattering on people's faces and that the color rendition is correct." Callison RTKL is responsible for the lighting design of many luxury beauty retailers, so Gim knows how important it is that customers feel positive about themselves and the products they sample and purchase. When she enters a beauty store, she goes straight for the mirrors. "I always look at myself to see if they got the lighting right." Shelly, of Regency Lighting Studio, goes a step further and stresses that lighting not only can delight the senses but also "can become a noticeable distraction and detriment to the function and beauty of a space" when done wrong. He stresses that when lighting sources are too cool in temperature (blue tones as opposed to warmer tones), customers look dull and lackluster. So how do you achieve balance? Gim believes soft ambient lighting is the key. While directed light is good for highlighting merchandise, it should be balanced by indirect light- ing close to mirrors to flatter all skin tones. She compares the technique to old-fashioned theatrical dressing rooms. She says: "Like Las Vegas dressing rooms, where they have the marquee lighting that's liter- ally the frame around the mirrors that performers use while applying makeup. All that soft light is on your face—and not behind you." LIGHT THE WAY TO HIGHER SALES Burdi points out that products are often improperly lit, making items difficult to choose from or hard to find–an issue he had to address in the Murale redesign. "We used halogens to create focusable light in every area with the right color temperature. The end result successfully achieved a space that did not rely on task lighting, so end users could migrate everywhere around the store while shopping for products and still see themselves in their best light." These types of choices can influence your bottom line. Spacesmith's Miller asserts that poor product sales can be directly attributed to inadequate lighting. "How merchandise is featured drastically affects the choices of consumers when shopping. The way in which a product is displayed and called to attention can influence a consumer in their purchasing choices," he says. He and others have identified a universal solution: more-flexible lighting options with fixtures that can be angled. Direct lighting is affordable to install and can pay off in increased sales as strategically placed and lighted products gain more attention. Spacing products far apart, such as in display cases, also helps. This makes the items appear special or one-of-a-kind. This technique can be especially effective when paired with products that have a unique or metallic finish or sparkly packaging. Miller suggests illuminating items from behind to achieve an eye-catching glow. Gim also recommends installing makeup mirrors with adjustable lighting– day to evening, sunlight or candlelight. This customizable approach allows customers to envision how makeup will look for a wedding, a night out or a day at the office. Be careful to avoid harsh shadows, though. They're unflattering and make it difficult to discern color properly. Both Gim and Shelly advise using high color- rendering light sources within the neutral temperature range of 3,000K to 3,500K. Even the budget-conscious business owner can improve sales and client satisfaction with small adjustments or baby steps toward a total retrofit. As we move toward more sustainable energy sources, the variety of color options available will expand. Beauty retailers can no longer afford to lag behind, using outdated and inefficient lighting sources. Doug Rod, co-owner and president of Atlanta Light Bulbs, believes that the correct lighting is imperative for the cosmetics retailer. "If you want happy customers, you need good lighting that ensures their expectations and your results are a perfect match." ■ Jody Pamela Miller is a freelance beauty and lifestyle writer based in Los Angeles, CA. "If you want happy customers, you need good lighting that ensures their expectations and your results are a perfect match." —Doug Rod, co-owner and president, Atlanta Light Bulbs Flattering marquee-like lighting at NYX Professional Makeup store, Tysons Corner Center, McLean, Virginia Kris Connor/Stringer/Getty Images for NYX Professional Makeup Dim glow Soft white glow, yellowish cast Bright white light, suitable for workspaces Blue-white light, mimics daylight Bluish light, usually found in commercial locations KELVIN SCALE OF COLOR TEMPERATURES Less than 2,000K 2,000K to 3,000K 3,100K to 4,500K 4,600K to 6,500K 6,500K+

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