Beauty Store Business

NOV 2018

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Page 57 of 67

56 November 2018 | Skincare Spotlight ntiaging. What does it mean? Many argue that we should banish the term altogether. Yet, the word is still o•ten used in marketing, and consumers are drawn to skincare products meant •or achieving more youth•ul-looking skin. Let's •irst de•ine what skin aging is. There are two types: intrinsic (genetic) and extrinsic (environmental). No topical product can prevent genetic aging; it's written in our genes and a part o• li•e. All topical products help reverse the e••ects o• environmental aging–the type o• aging that we can control, prevent and treat. This type is caused by •ree radicals •rom the sun and pollution, which result in accelerated in•lammation. Let's take a look at today's top antiaging ingredients that will help your customers slow down accelerated environmental aging. RETINOL Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and a precursor •or the synthesis o• retinal and retinoic acid. Retinol decreases •ine lines and wrinkles by decreasing the activity o• enzymes that break down collagen and increasing glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis. An increase in glycosaminoglycan synthesis contributes to enhanced •irmness o• the skin. Retinol also works on pigmentation irregularities and decreases hyperpigmentation, contributing to a more even complexion. Finally, retinol accelerates cellular turnover, which in turn decreases skin roughness. There are two challenges when using retinol. The •irst is its tendency to induce skin irritation, such as •laking, dryness, sensitivity and redness. Your customers can control the irritation to an extent with appropriate •ormulations (think time-release technology and encapsulation) or through the addition o• anti-in•lammatory ingredients to counteract retinol's side e••ects–such as hydrators, antioxidants and soothing ingredients. The second issue is retinol's instability, in particular the molecule's sensitivity to oxygen and light. Products o••ering airless packaging will help maintain the stability and e••icacy o• a retinol-based topical product. It should also be noted that retinol-based products should be incorporated into one's skincare routine •or customers in their mid-30s, and not any younger. This is a corrective ingredient rather than a preventative one. STEM CELLS Stem cells are undi••erentiated cells that, upon exposure to tissue-speci•ic biochemical signals, turn into specialized cells. These cells play a signi•icant role in tissue development and regeneration. Speci•ically, plants are an extremely interesting source o• stem cells (versus animal or human stem cells), and products containing plant stem cells restore the quality o• the skin and have signi•icant regenerative properties. VITAMIN C Vitamin C is a •amily o• compounds known •or being super antioxidants. Some o• the most commonly used •orms o• vitamin C in skin care are ascorbic acid, ascorbyl phosphate (as magnesium and sodium salts) and other ascorbate deriv- atives. The main challenge with vitamin C compounds, in general, is their stability (or oxygen sensitivity), particularly with ascorbic acid. Look •or the most stable types o• vitamin C, which are: magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Vitamin C helps neutralize •ree radicals by donating an electron to these unstable molecules, leading to the •orma- tion o• the more stable ascorbate •ree radical. In other words, vitamin C neutralizes some o• the most ne•arious •ree radicals, including the hydroxyl radical and superoxide anion. Vitamin C plays an essential role in the •ormation o• collagen and is known to inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible •or the •ormation o• melanin. So, vitamin C helps prevent brown spots. Scienti•ic studies have also proven that vitamin C helps prevent sun-induced redness. One study showed that a pretreatment containing vitamin C resulted in a 40 percent reduction o• sunburned cells and a 52 percent reduction in redness compared to non-treated skin. HYALURONIC ACID Generally, your clients want to increase their skin's water content to stay hydrated, improve the skin's smoothness and decrease symptoms o• itching, stinging and burning. The water content o• the skin can be improved by delaying transepidermal water loss while increasing the •low o• water •rom the dermis to the epidermis. Hyaluronic acid plays a key role in the hydration o• the skin because it is a humectant–it is necessary to bind water molecules to the skin and helps the skin retain moisture, resulting in increased hydration and elasticity. PEPTIDES Peptides are short polymers o• amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and are the building blocks o• collagen. There are hundreds o• peptides, composed o• various combinations o• amino acids. One popular peptide used in skincare •ormula- tions, •or example, is palmitoyl pentapeptide. Peptides have been shown to help strengthen and enhance the skin's natural proteins, which include collagen, elastin and keratin. When educating customers on the pros and cons o• the ingredients discussed above, it is essential to remind them that antiaging skin care should be both preventative and corrective. A healthy skincare routine should start during one's teenage years. Antiaging ingredients should make their appearance by the time one is in their mid- to late-20s (with retinol being an exception to this rule). And, o• course, no antiaging skincare routine is complete without daily SPF protection–20 or above •or normal wear and 50 or above •or beach days. Now that you're armed with knowledge about these top antiaging ingredients, recommending an e••ective beauty regimen •or youth•ul, hydrated skin is well within reach. ■ Ada S. Polla is the president, CEO and co-creator o Alchimie Forever o Switzerland. Proven Antiaging Ingredients Discover the top powerhouse ingredients that help reduce the signs o aging. By Ada S. Polla with research by Anne Pouillot-Grandgirard Courtesy o• Ada S. Polla

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