Beauty Store Business

SEP 2018

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20 September 2018 | beautystorebusiness.com In March, MAC Cosmetics announced the addition of three new glitter shades to its collections–ahead of the summer concert season. Makeup guru Pat McGrath forged glistening metallic tears from MAC's Glitter in Reflects Pearl and Reflects Gold for Anna Sui's catwalk show. "The average girl or guy is way more makeup savvy these days," says Nicole Faulkner (also known as influencer LipstickNick), director of global artistry for Morphe. "People want the full look, decorated with highlights and contours." The same holds true for lips, which are flashy and reflective. Everyone's favorite '90s lip gloss has been revamped into a "liquid" gloss/stick hybrid. "Incredible ingredient advancements are improving wearability, which means metallic pucker-ups like Sephora Collection Cream Lip Stain are having a major moment," Phillips says. Yet in response to mounting concerns regarding the harmful pollutant effects of tiny plastic particles such as microbeads, festivals and carnivals in the U.K. and Brazil have launched "glitter is litter" campaigns to ban the use of plastic sparklers. "Conceptualizing environmentally friendly glitter will be key for brands moving forward. We can expect consumers to demand biodegradable glitter as awareness grows around plastic pollution," Libby predicts. MOTHER EARTH REBIRTH Plastic bans are only the beginning. Evolving customer concerns coupled with global climate shifts mean the personal care industry's approach to harvesting ingredients will likewise have to adapt. Mintel reports that 56 percent of U.S. shoppers have stopped purchasing from retailers they suspect to be unethical. In ever greater numbers, consumers are also thinking small: locally sourced, regionally produced, microbatch products. Such efforts make buyers feel proud for doing their part to guard the planet. Case in point: Ajali Handmade Naturals, a Nigeria-based brand with a moral ethos that sets a strong example. Their 100 percent eco-friendly beauty items use ingredients indigenous to West Africa–such as unrefined cocoa butter and virgin coconut oil– farmed from neighboring plantations. They vocally encourage consumers to embrace differences and individuality. "From ingredients to packaging to branding, over the next three years companies will be challenged to focus on safety and purity, to clearly communicate product benefits and to turn to technology in order to take a local and ethical stance," Libby says. Smartphone apps such as Detox Me are making it ever easier for users to nix chemicals from their daily lives by offering simple, fact-based tips on reducing exposure to potentially harmful contaminants. In the future, science may further salvage biodiversity by replacing wild-ingredient sourcing with pure, toxin-free compounds made sustainably in labs. FOCUS ON DIVERSITY Deeply pigmented products pack a powerfully pleasing saturation punch, yet sheer makeup holds its own appeal. Today's offerings let skin's inherent undertones shine through the shade, which aligns with a universal call for increased color diversity. Roughly 40 percent of American makeup users between the ages of 25 and 34 are frustrated by a lack of products that match their own skin tones, according to Mintel. Brands are noting this FUN FACTS Mintel experts share beauty insight from around the world. "People want the full look, decorated with highlights and contours." —Nicole Faulkner, director of global artistry, Morphe "Trends in makeup evolve just like fashion or music fads," says Nicole Faulkner, Morphe's director of global artistry. "We want to be constantly stimulated by something new and fresh." Nicole Faulkner CHINA 45% of women who use facial skin care plan to rely more often on products made with herbs and plants BRAZIL 28% of makeup users choose colors with a sparkling effect ITALY 62% of women ages 16 to 24 bought eyeliner in the past year USA 67% of iGeneration beauty buyers ages 18 to 22 prefer to search for product information in-store on a mobile device rather than ask a sales associate UK 50% of customers who buy beauty products look for those using natural ingredients GERMANY 31% of women ages 16 to 24 wear makeup to feel trendy FRANCE 75% of women say feeling comfortable is better than looking perfect From top: courtesy of Morphe, MoustacheGirl/gettyimages.com

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