Beauty Store Business

SEP 2018

Beauty Store Business provides solutions for better retailing! New products, industry news, savvy business moves and important trends affecting both brick-and-mortar and online retailers are included in each issue.

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18 September 2018 | EYE SPY Eyes are windows to the soul, perhaps now more than ever, with extra attention being paid to peepers. Cleopatra's signature kohl-lined look is undergoing a modern evolution expressed in two different ways. The first is soft. Instead of contouring with bold strokes that culminate in an ultra sharp, upturned wing, "thumbprint" liner calls for a gentler smudge of charcoal near the outer crease. "Geometric shapes are progressing to softer, easier-to-apply styles," says Charlotte Libby, global beauty and personal care analyst at market research firm Mintel. Both Hadid sisters boasted this subtle look during 2018 runway shows: Bella at Jason Wu and Gigi at Tom Ford. The second cat-eye iteration is dramatic. Black lines were brought down into sharp points at the inner-eye corners, mirroring the striking lines drawn around outer edges. Then liner moved lower. Instead of tracing above models' top lashes, Jill Stuart flipped the pattern. Pencils drew beneath bottom rims, flicking upward for a jaunty finish. "The standard cut crease and smoky eye are being replaced with a focus on different areas of the eyes," Libby says. Further, today's hot looks aren't monochromatic; they're multicolored. Electric blue under-eye shadow on Chromat's spring New York Fashion Week runway (see top middle). Lime green sweetened lids at Byblos (see top left), while Fenty and Novis ladies shone with streaks of sunny yellow. "Inner-eye strobing using multiple hues has become a popular trend to make eyes pop brighter and wider," Libby explains. Brow bones are likewise experiencing their moment in the spotlight–a single swath of neon tangerine or green are all it takes to make a startling statement. Libby adds, "Pigment under eyebrows is the freshest way to wear bold shades, and consumers will soon be searching for the tools and products to perfect application on these new zones." Ditto for brows themselves. According to Helen Phillips, Sephora Collection national makeup artist, "To no surprise, brows are still–and may always be–a prime makeup essential." Customers are scooping up Sephora's Beau Brow because it lends sheer, buildable coverage that's a breeze to apply. ALL THAT GLITTERS It's unfair to say glitter is making a comeback since this craze never fully faded. But shimmery offerings are certainly entering a new phase. "Look for bigger particles applied to unusual sections of the face and body," Libby says. Sparkly sequins, crystals, rhinestones and even dried flowers will increasingly bedazzle visages with the help of lash glue. Giambattista Valli took this expression to its extreme, showcasing full-face holographic glitter at his autumn/winter 2018–19 runway show (shown below). "Appliqué makeup was most commonly associated with nail art, but it's now moving into face, lip and eye designs," Libby notes. "In the U.S., 20 percent of cosmetics users ages 18 to 34 are interested in adhesive innovations that incorporate 3D effects." Singer-turned-entrepreneur Robyn "Rihanna" Fenty launched her eponymous Fenty Beauty line last year to fill an industry void for products that work on all skin tones. Her fan-favorite Trophy Wife highlighter continues to sell like liquid gold. The gilt glitter shines on every complexion, from ebony to ivory. "I believe we'll soon also see bold festival looks translated into everyday makeup, with items like Fenty's Killawatt Foil Freestyle Highlighter Duo, which brings a vivid yet subtle shimmer to eyes and cheeks," Phillips says. "Consumers have never had more information at their fingertips, which has gi ed them with power when purchasing products," says Charlotte Libby, Mintel's global beauty and personal care analyst. Charlotte Libby "Inner-eye strobing using multiple hues has become a popular trend to make eyes pop brighter and wider." —Charlotte Libby, global beauty and personal care analyst, Mintel From top le : Pietro D'aprano/, courtesy of Mintel's Global Beauty, Andrew Toth, Catwalking/, courtesy of Sephora "This is an extremely exciting time for makeup, as people continue to express their individuality with beauty choices," raves Helen Phillips, Sephora Collection national makeup artist. Helen Phillips

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