Beauty Store Business

AUG 2018

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70 August 2018 | beautystorebusiness.com radicals in follicles. A force of additional antioxidants makes saffron one of the most-potent known preventers of tress loss, which means it's good for those with alopecia. Saffron's second winning trait is attributed to crocin. This carotenoid, or organic pigment, bestows the spice's stunning crimson hue as well as its anti- inflammatory nature. Rounding out the list, saffron contains an abundance of vitamins and minerals. "Vitamins B and C, folic acid, calcium, magnesium, phosphorous, selenium and zinc further promote hair growth," says Shiva Tavakoli, cofounder of Joon Haircare. The Bad: The spice is fit for sultans–and that's reflected in its price. Saffron ranks among the most expensive oils. The Bottom Line: Saffron is the best oil for preventing hair loss. COCONUT Call coconut the ultimate multi- tasker. Cultures throughout the centuries have woven its palm leaves into baskets, turned its shells to cutlery, eaten its meat and gulped its milk. Coconut oil is a natural tooth whitener and, of course, it's the holy grail of hair treatments. There seems to be no limit to what this gift from the gods can do. The Good: Part of coconut oil's power comes from the fruit's similarity to our hair's natural lipid structure, enabling it to easily and completely permeate shafts. It's packed with vitamins (especially E) and fatty acids, so it promotes moisture–then retains it. Rather than evaporate, the oil stays in strands to both repair and protect it from heat. Carbohydrates fatten–and for tresses, that's a good thing. What's more, this oil also contains two saturated fatty acids, lauric and capric, which lend their antimicrobial strength to the fight against scalp infection. The Bad: Because it seemingly works miracles and smells like piña coladas, the temptation is to slather on this oil. However, overdoing it has the counterintuitive effect of turning hair unresponsive. Coconut oil works best when used in moderation. The Bottom Line: This oil is best for all hair types. ALMOND Almond is not just the name of the seed, but also the tree species native to Middle Eastern regions with temperate climates, such as Pakistan and Turkey. Historically, Greco-Persian healers used almond extract to soothe psoriasis, eczema and other skin conditions. The Good: The properties that make almond oil an effective dermal rejuvenator apply equally to hair. It's got antioxidants, including vitamin E, fatty acids and protein, as well as a high dose of magnesium. Deficiency of this element in the body can cause calcium deposits to build on the head, which leads to flaking. As it does for skin, almond oil alleviates psoriasis of the scalp. It's an emollient, so it fills the gaps in hair at the cellular level. Because it's among the lightest of all nut oils, it works best on thin, fine strands. Don't get confused if you see the words "sweet almond oil" on a bottle. All almond extract used for hair is sweet. There are technically two types of almond oil: sweet and bitter. The latter is pressed from almonds that contain traces of hydrocyanic acid, aka cyanide. This poison gets destroyed when heated and processed, and the bitter stuff typically goes into making almond butter or flavored liqueurs. The Bad: Its powers are a bit limited. Almond oil may not tame frizz on coarse or textured locks. Advise customers to combine almond oil with a drop of coconut oil to calm flyaways while still reaping this nut's benefits. The Bottom Line: It's the best oil for beating dandruff. JOJOBA First, a confession: In consistency, jojoba oil is actually more of a wax, pulled from a shrub that grows in the southwestern segment of the U.S. Native Americans liked it for treating common skin injuries such as bruises, burns and sores. The Good: Jojoba is unique in that it most closely mimics the molecular composition of human sebum. So scalps drink it up, and it works wonders on most manes. Vitamins E and B enable skin and hair to retain the oil's moisture. Additional inherent minerals include silicon, zinc and copper, which trigger rapid cell reproduction. The Bad: Jojoba's benefits take slightly longer to manifest. The Bottom Line: In addtion to its mois- turizing benefits, jojoba is the best oil for promoting hair growth. OLIVE Screen siren Sophia Loren once famously attributed her vitality to olive oil baths– perhaps the only endorsement needed. Olive trees have been cultivated in Asia Minor and Mediterranean countries for thousands of years; they are so ubiquitous as to be considered life-essential. The Good: Fans of olive oil love how it provides the trifecta of tress blessings: body, softness and resilience. Thank the fruit's primary chemical elements–oleic and palmitic acid, plus squalene. The oil coats shafts and acts as a heat guard. Its vitamin composition centers on A and E, which help combat dihydrotestosterone (DHT), that pesky hormone that contributes to hair loss by wearing down follicles. In addition, a mix of antioxidants within help battle free radicals responsible for premature graying. Research shows that antioxidants also improve tresses' overall shine, color and texture. The Bad: There can be too much of a good thing. Squalene found in olive oil is also present in scalp sebum, so overuse of this hair oil can quickly equal greasy, weighed-down locks. The Bottom Line: This is the best oil for baby-soft strands. ■ Francesca Moisin is a beauty and haircare writer based in Rockport, MA. From Hask, Monoi Coconut Oil Nourishing Shine Hair Oil absorbs instantly, lending shine sans oily residue. An added bonus? Its swoon-worthy scent, which blends Tahitian gardenias with coconuts. SRP: $5.99, haskbeauty.com Rich in almond and jojoba oils, the Olio Lusso Rodin by Recine can be used as a conditioner, scalp treatment, styling aid and even as a natural, sun-activated color li er. SRP: $70, rodinoliolusso.com Badger Balm's moisturizing Jojoba Hair Oil for Dry Scalp balances oil production and features menthol crystals and peppermint essential oils to stimulate hair follicles and soothe the scalp. It also contains rosemary and tea tree provide antimicrobial, cleansing properties. SRP: $18.99, badgerbalm.com Oribe Côte d'Azur Hair & Body Oil boasts a restorative blend of nourishing oils, including olive and almond oils, to impart strands with a satin glow and silk-finish so ness. SRP: $75, oribe.com h i l d d j j b il th Oli Côte d'Azur Hair & Body Oil boast Top of page images courtesy of manufacturers. Images within mainbar from le : Science Photo Library, dmuratsahin, mashuk, Kovaleva_Ka COCONUT ALMOND JOJOBA OLIVE

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