Beauty Store Business

AUG 2018

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68 August 2018 | ARGAN Argan oil comes from an eponymous tree native to Morocco, which explains why the extract is also called Moroccan oil. Its use is long and storied. Berbers culled it circa 600 B.C., drawn by its health- and beauty- enhancing benefits. Today, the North African country's argan forests are protected by UNESCO as Biosphere Reserve sites. Harvesting must be sustainable–though native goats enjoy free reign, climbing branches and scaling treetops to munch the wholesome nuts. The Good: "Liquid gold" is argan oil's third name, for good reason: It's rich in nutrients, including vitamins A, C and E, loads of essential fatty acids–primarily omega-rich oleic, palmitic and linoleic acids–and a concentrated quantity of other antioxidants such as squalene (a super-saturating lipid), ferulic acid and carotenoids. Argan oil fights dandruff by helping to reduce skin inflammation. Because it is ultra rich in vitamin E, it also helps repair dry, damaged hair and scalps. "Argan naturally increases elasticity, then consistently restores shine to dull, lifeless tresses," says Kevin Hughes, Moroccanoil's artistic director. Suggest that your customers who love swimming and sunning protect their strands from the mean effects of chlorine, salt and UV rays by first combing through a few drops of oil, from root to tip. Argan forms a natural mantle, locking in moisture while blocking free radicals and harsh environmental toxins. Prestyling is a second way to use it. "Infuse damp hair with argan serum to decrease tearing when brushing," Hughes suggests. The Bad: Impostor oils have caused acne- like allergic skin reactions, usually around the scalp line, neck or chest. In pure form, argan should have a slightly nutty scent that fades after application. Look for the words "Made in Morocco" or the ECOCERT certified product label to ensure you're carrying a quality oil in your store. The Bottom Line: It's the best oil for dry, frizzy strands. CASTOR Previous genera- tions might be traumatized by childhood memories of swallowing a spoon of castor oil to temper indigestion–but there is method to the seeming madness of this age-old remedy. Pressed from the seeds of castor plants, the potent, pale yellow vegetable byproduct promotes digestion, serves as a disinfectant and boosts the immune response. The Good: This lubricant is antiviral, anti- fungal and antibacterial. That's why it can battle dandruff and prevent scalp infections such as ringworm, which may lead to hair loss and folliculitis, which manifests as raised red bumps. Ricinoleic acid found in castor oil helps balance scalp pH by lowering alkaline levels that sometimes spike when we overshampoo. It increases circulation, simultaneously stimulating follicle growth while reducing hair loss. Furthermore, castor oil is made of moistur- izing fatty acids that penetrate shafts. "Moisture seals the damaged cracks on hair's hydrolipidic film, increasing tensile strength and smoothing cuticles to deliver sheer shine," explains Heather Coughlin, director of product development at Amika. Castor oil for hair comes in three main types. Cold-pressed, sometimes called organic, is pulled from seeds sans heat; it's best for curly ringlets and dry, itchy scalps. Jamaican black is roasted, with ashes of the seeds used in elixirs, accounting for its onyx color. Straight manes get the most from this variety. Hydrogenated castor oil is brittle, thus added mainly to pomades. The Bad: The smell! Some describe castor oil as pungent. Jamaican black is especially smoky. To nix the bad odor, advise your customers to mix in rosemary, lavender or peppermint essential oils. The Bottom Line: It's the best oil for fighting fungal or bacterial scalp conditions. HEMP Perhaps the most maligned of all oils, hemp gets a bad rap from critics who incorrectly equate it with marijuana. Though both come from the Cannabis sativa plant, the former can't get you high, as it contains only trace amounts (0.3 percent or less) of THC, the plant's psychoactive chemical. Hemp cul- tivation for research became legal in 2014, and more than a dozen states have since allowed its commercial production, with talks underway to authorize farming at the federal level. Hemp oil is cold-pressed from seeds, emerging light green with a rich aroma, like nuts mixed with mowed grass. The Good: Remarkably, this oil is composed of 25 percent protein–a perfect complement to hair's natural keratin makeup. "It acts as a protein booster, penetrating shafts to make them thick and strong from the inside out," says Talia Tiram, Ecoco's vice president of national chain sales. It's perfectly balanced: Equal parts omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 saturate without adding unwanted weight. "Continual use of cannabis oil allows its high-value fatty acids to bond with hair, restraining future breakage," she says. Plus, hemp is a ceramide. These waxy lipids are incredibly hydrating, preventing water loss and injecting follicles with moisture. The Bad: When stored incorrectly, unrefined hemp oil can turn rancid a few months after opening. Urge your customers to keep it cold and store it out of light. The Bottom Line: This is the best oil for countering breakage. SAFFRON There's nothing ugly about saffron. It comes from the stigma of the Crocus sativus plant, which smells like honey and flowers bright violet. Originally produced in Persia, the spice was traded for millennia as one of the world's most expensive seasonings. It's said that Cleopatra mixed it into her proprietary bath blend before greeting suitors. Maybe that's because saffron is rich in manganese, a naturally occurring essential mineral that relieves inflammation, boosts vitamin absorp- tion, supports digestion and improves cognitive function, among other things. The Good: As for hair benefits, manga- nese boasts antioxidants that fight free "Moroccanoil Treatment Original has been a best-seller since hitting salons 10 years ago because it fights dryness while reducing frizz and restoring strength and elasticity," says Kevin Hughes, Moroccanoil's artistic director. Suggested Retail Price: $44, "Emulsified with castor oil, Curl Corps Enhancing Gel is a weather-proofing curl-booster that delivers bouncy shape without the crunch factor," says Heather Coughlin, Amika's director of product development. SRP: $25, "The Eco Natural Cannabis Sativa Oil blends the incredible healing properties of hemp oil with other essential off erings to nourish and protect strands," says Talia Tiram, Ecoco's vice president of national chain sales. SRP: $20, "Added to wet hair, Saff ron Hair Elixir Oil relaxes frizz and speeds up drying time," says Shiva Tavakoli, Joon Haircare cofounder. "On dry strands, it serves as a protectant." SRP: $28, Top of page images courtesy of manufacturers. Images within mainbar from le : JuanamariGonzalez, nortongo, eskymaks, george tsartsianidis george tsartsianidis ARGAN CASTOR HEMP SAFFRON

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