Beauty Store Business

JAN 2018

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60 January 2018 | Last June, Global Industry Analysts reported that the global nutricosmetics market was projected to reach $7.5 billion by 2024, and points to myriad factors at work behind the surge: a consumer emphasis on less invasive beauty treatments; a growing interest in preventative care due to skyrocketing healthcare costs; and the health and wellness megatrend, fueled by manufacturers who are offering consumers new pathways to beauty from within. The report even suggested that male consumers would be increasingly susceptible to appearance-enhancing supplements. The category is projected to continue growing. "The beauty supplement business is still relatively small. In the $18 billion prestige beauty market in the U.S., beauty sup- plements represented just $13.1 million–but most industry insiders are betting on growth," says Jonny Bowden, PhD, CNS, a Los Angeles-based nutritionist, speaker, consultant and author of 15 books, including The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth. "The CRN's 2016 consumer survey on dietary supplements found that nearly one-fifth of supplement users in the U.S. already take supplements for skin, hair and nail benefits." INGESTIBLES ON THE RISE Beauty stores are accustomed to meeting customers' every beauty need–but are they satiating their growing hunger for ingestibles? Topical products for hair, skin and nails are stalwarts of the industry, but it's becoming an increas- ingly good idea to also stock up on products that promote beauty from within. Sephora, for example, recently added Moon Juice powders to its already robust lineup of supple- ments designed to fix issues from acne and sagging skin to thinning hair and dark undereye circles. After all, with more consumers aware of the link between their inner health and outer appearance, they're beginning to seek solutions outside of the latest topical treatments. "I'm a big believer in the idea that beauty starts from the inside out, just as aging does," Bowden says. "Superficial fixes like skin creams and wrinkle-hiders may temporarily improve the look of the skin–or, more correctly, may help camouflage the signs of aging and wear–but the regeneration of healthy skin, and the moistur- izing of skin in general, really has to start from within." Esther Blum, MS, RD, CDN, CNS, an integrative dietician, holistic health expert and author of Cavewomen Don't Get Fat, based in Weston, Connecticut, agrees that more and more consumers are making the correlation between wellness and beauty. "Topical products are great at treating the symptoms," Blum says. "But if you want to reverse or cure what's creating those problems, you have to start from within." Don't fret; no one's going to toss those high-end, age-defying creams just yet. Bowden emphasizes that supplements aren't necessarily more or less effective than topical products–they simply work in different ways. "We do know that substances can be delivered to the body transdermally (through the skin), but how much active ingredients can be put into skincare products vs. how much can be ingested through supplements is an open question," he says. "I'm a big believer in building the infrastructure first, and in skin and beauty, the infrastruc- ture starts at the cellular level. That's where nutritional supplements can really shine." INGREDIENT INTELLIGENCE Looking for certain key ingredients in beauty supplements can help you select the optimal options for customers. According to Bowden, supplements that help build collagen–the most abundant protein in the body, important for connective tissue like skin and joints–are good bets for promoting beauty from within. In years past, people were taught that collagen supplements couldn't be absorbed when taken orally, "but that's old information," he says. "High-quality collagen supplements can very definitely be absorbed, and a fair amount of research shows improvement in skin and joint health with the proper use of the right kind of collagen supplements. I think daily collagen supplements can go a long way toward helping to stem the destruction that comes from having smaller and smaller collagen stores." Bowden notes that there are more than a dozen differ- ent forms of collagen, but only three are important for the human body. Collagen types 1 and 3 are more targeted to the skin, while type 2 is helpful for joints. And Blum adds that many protein powders now often contain collagen as well–an ideal way for those who already use these formulas to receive an extra beauty boost. Omega-3s, Bowden believes, can do more to improve the skin, hair and nails than any superficial "fix" thanks to their anti-inflammatory properties. After all, inflammation "is a promoter, an accompaniment or cause within virtually every degenerative disease on the planet, from heart disease to diabetes to arthritis," Bowden explains. Acne outbreaks, too, are related to inflammation, so anti-inflammatory ingredients can help the skin. His top ingredient picks? Fish oil, which boasts two omega-3s (EPA and DHA), or alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), found in flaxseed and chia seeds. Blum also advocates omega-3 fatty acids, which hydrate and plump skin cells, and keep blood vessels flexible and fluid (ideal for those prone to capillary damage). Because of their anti-inflammatory properties, they can be helpful for customers with rosacea; she recommends at least 2 grams, or 2,000 milligrams, per day. As environmental stressors, styling tools and aggressive products take their toll, keratin has become a popular supplement for creating healthier-looking locks. "Keratin is the main structural protein in the hair," Bowden explains. "There's an awful lot of anecdotal evidence showing that keratin supplements can make a big difference in its appearance, thickness and luster." ONES TO WATCH Looking for additional ingredients that can help to boost beauty? Esther Blum, author of Cavewomen Don't Get Fat, recommends the following. Contains gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) which helps control sebum production for those with acne. It hydrates and moisturizes from within and regulates the hormonal balance. BORAGE OR PRIMROSE OIL A great detoxifier to counteract the effects of mercury or mold exposure, which makes people sick and causes everything from undereye circles to liver issues. HAWAIIAN SPIRULINA For tightening and toning the facial contours, (DEAE) helps boost neurotransmitter production, so it aids both brain and beauty. Think improved cognitive function and anti-sagging capabilities. DIETHYLAMI- NOETHANOL ( DEAE ) A specific type of red algae that pink flamingos and red salmon eat to give them their signature pink color. In humans, the ingredient provides a natural SPF of about 5 when taken orally, but it's also a great anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. ASTAXANTHIN Use for inflammation, especially rosacea and acneÐand most people are deficient due to a high- sugar diet, high stress and poor gut function. Try ionic zinc in 25- to 50-milligram doses. ZINC

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