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34 June 2015 | beautystorebusiness.com Skincare Spotlight I WAS 15 WHEN MY GRANDMOTHER FIRST TOOK me to see an esthetician for a facial. This was on top of the fact that my father is a dermatologist and was carefully looking at my skin and the emergence of a few pimples here and there. My grandma told me that while my father was always going to be able to fix pimples, the esthetician would be able to teach me how to pre- vent them. She would teach me about skin health care. I am forever grateful for that first facial visit. When speaking with my father, dermatologist Dr. Luigi L. Polla, about the topic of teenage skin care, he confirms that early skincare habits are essential, and that the skincare advice given to teenagers should focus on three things: skin hygene; acne treatment and prevention; and sun care. With these three bases covered, teenagers can age gracefully and avoid permanent acne scarring that plagues so many people. Remember that these habits are not complicated. They do not need to be expensive; and they will set up teenager customers for self care through skin care for life. SKIN HYGIENE: THE BASICS OF PROPER SKIN CARE While the following advice can seem overly simple, the daily ritual of skin cleansing is key, and involves more than water and soap. It is as follows: • Wash your face twice daily. Do not use bar soap, which will dry out your skin. Instead, find a facial cleanser according to your skin type. Most teens have oilier skin due to active sebaceous glands. To prevent acne and breakouts, look for ingredients such as salicylic acid. • Never go to sleep with your makeup on. The makeup particles will clog your pores and lead to blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts. • Wash your face after you've been exercising and sweating a lot. • Do not touch your face. • Moisturize your face daily (more on this in the sunscreen section)—in the morning, at the very least. The idea that you do not need to hydrate your skin because you have oily skin is inaccurate. Look for a moisturizer adapted to your skin type, which can be a light, even oil-free, lotion for an oilier skin type. If your skin is extremely oily, mois- turizing once per day in the morning may be enough. As your sebaceous glands regulate themselves, incorporate a moisturizing step in the evening. • Exfoliate weekly. Do not use harsh exfoliators or scrubs with rough particles in them. These will only aggravate the inflammation of the skin, which comes with acne, and will cause micro-wounds and tears. Instead, pick a gentle exfoliator and, again, look for salicylic acid as a key ingredient, as this will help to regulate breakouts. • A clay mask can be a fun product to incorporate into a weekly routine, which will help to deeply clean pores and pull out impurities. In this day and age of selfies (look for the hashtag #glamglow to get a sense of the popularity of masks!), a mask application can easily become a fun glamorous moment, even one that can be shared with girlfriends. • If you use hair sprays or gels, try to keep them away from your face, because they can clog pores. • If you have long hair, keep it away from your face and wash it regularly to reduce oil. If you have bangs, pay particular attention to your forehead when washing your face. • Baseball caps and other hats can cause pimples along the hairline. • Don't pick, squeeze or pop pimples. Ever. ACNE TREATMENT & PREVENTION According to Brown University, "approximately 17 million people in the United States have acne. Nearly 85% of people between the ages of 12- to 24-years-old develop acne. While both men and women are affected by acne, young men are more likely to suffer the effects of acne for longer periods of time because testosterone tends to make acne worse." Acne is a concern, as it affects self confidence, but also because, while acne itself usually goes away, teens' tendencies to pick at pimples can leave permanent scars. Indeed, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, more than 40% of adolescents have acne or acne scarring, which can severely affect a teen's self-esteem. Good skincare habits, such as those described above, will help prevent and minimize acne. However, sometimes these are not enough. In the case of mild acne, look for over-the-counter products that contain the following ingredients: benzoyl peroxide, resorcinol, salicylic acid, sulfur, azelaic acid or Retin-A. Each ingredient works slightly differently: Some kill bacteria (for example benzoyl peroxide); some break down blackheads; some combat inflammation; and some exfoliate (salicylic acid). If over-the-counter gels and creams do not lead to skin improvement after four to six weeks, a visit to the derma- tologist is necessary. Actually, my father recommends that just like my grandmother took me to the esthetician when I turned 15, every parent should take his or her child to a Teenage Skin Care 101 Understand the importance of teaching teenagers good skincare habits to sell more products. by Ada S. Polla Photo courtesy of Ada S. Polla; photo by Kelli Dailey, Third Line Studios Recommend a great cleanser and moisturizer to every teen who walks in to purchase an eye shadow or lip gloss.