Beauty Store Business

NOV 2017

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44 November 2017 | beautystorebusiness.com when recommending products to your cus- tomers, as age may help guide the best product suggestions. THE SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS The symptoms for both dehydrated and dry skin are similar, so making a retail recommendation can be challenging. Typical symptoms include a feeling of tightness, flakiness, itchiness, irritation and sensitivity. Overall, the look of both skin types is also similar. The skin will look lackluster, rough and lacking in suppleness. Consumers are often confused about their skin type—not just between dry and dehydrated skin but even between dry and oily types. When a customer with a visibly dry skin type insists they have oily skin, it is often based on recollections of how their skin was in their teens or early 20s, and a fear of breakouts and acne. An easy at-home test to recommend is to ask customers to wash and dry their face, and then describe how it feels. Does it feel like it is right about to crack, and that they need to run to their jar of moisturizer for comfort? If this is the case, he or she has a dry or dehydrated skin type. In addition, there are a few key facts to keep in mind when discussing this complex topic with your customers. Remember, oily skin types can be dehydrated. The look of the skin can also be deceiving, too. For example, an oily skin type can look oily, but still lack water. Also, as mentioned earlier, our sebaceous glands often slow down with age—meaning your older customers are more prone to dry skin. When retailing products, keep in mind that treating dehydrated or dry skin is not all about which moisturizer your customer is using. Their environment plays a role, as does their cleansing routine. Here are other factors to consider: 1. Weather: The weather has a sig- nificant impact on dehydration of the skin. Cold, wind, air conditioning and indoor heating will all increase the likeliness of dehydration. 2. Humidity: A humidifier can help with the environmental influences noted above. 3. Bathing Habits: Prolonged water submersion also strips the skin of its natural oils. Thus, long baths are not recommended. 4. Cleansing: Over-cleansing and over-exfoliating can lead to dry skin. Indeed, Dr. Susan Elliott, owner of Foxhall Dermatology, says that she always addresses dry skin by beginning with her patient's cleansing routine. "My best advice is to cleanse more gently," she says. MAKING RECOMMENDATIONS Moisturizers for dehydrated skin must help prevent transepidermal water loss, help the skin replenish its moisture lev- els and also repair the skin's natural barrier to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture. Look for products containing humectants, which you want to stock. Dr. Leslie Baumann, owner of Baumann Cosmetic Dermatology, says, "Humec- tants are agents that avidly bind water and hydrate skin by actually drawing water into themselves and onto the sur- face of the skin." Key humectants to look for include propylene glycol and urea (both are synthetic and very effective) as well as hyaluronic acid, glycerin and shea butter (which are of natural origin). In addition to humectants, for severely dehydrated skin, occlusive ingredients may also be necessary; these will help prevent moisture loss and evaporation. Dr. Baumann defines occlusive as "oily substances that coat the surface and prevent water from evaporating from the skin's surface." Many of these ingredients (think mineral oil, petrolatum and silicones) have a bad reputation, as they can sometimes clog pores. Instead, look for products containing beeswax or natural oils, such as evening primrose or sunflower oil. Moisturizers for dry skin types must also contain ingredients that will help com- plement the skin's natural oils, meaning lipids. Look for moisturizers that contain ingredients such as jojoba and vitamin E. Finally, ceramides are a key ingredi- ent when treating dehydrated (and even dry) skin because they work on the skin's natural barrier repair. Indeed, it is not as effective to simply replenish the skin's water or oil reserves if the skin's barrier is compromised. Ceramides are naturally present in our skin, and make up the "cement" that binds our cells together in the outermost layer of our skin. As they decrease, this cement of our skin's natural bar- rier begins to crumble and crack, and thus loses its efficacy. Using products containing ceramides will help to repair the skin's natural barrier. Dr. Elliott says, "I often recommend products containing ceramides to my patients with dehy- drated skin. The ceramide component of the skin is absolutely key." Though moisturizers are a must- have for your customers, especially during the cold winter months, there is also another component that's crucial to everyone's skin health: sunscreen. Dr. Polla says, "As you recommend the right moisturizer to your customers, whether they have dehydrated, dry, oily or combination skin, you must remind them that a morning cream has to contain an SPF of at least 20, January 1 through December 31." ■ Ada S. Polla is the president, CEO and co-creator of the skincare line Alchimie Forever of Switzerland, which launched in the U.S. in 2004. Skincare Spotlight OlgaMiltsova, gettyimages.com "In a nutshell, dehydrated skin lacks water and dry skin lacks oil." –Dr. Tina Alster FOR DRY LIPS AND HANDS The winter weather can also wreak havoc on our hands and lips. Here are tips to combat the cold. FOR HANDS • Wear gloves when it's cold outside; you would be surprised what that layer of protection does to keep hands soft. • Use a rich hand cream every evening—ideally one containing some of the occlusive ingredients discussed above. FOR LIPS • When exfoliating your skin, rub some product very gently on chapped lips. • Do not bite or pick at the skin on your lips if they are peeling; this will further dry out your lips and will be quite painful. • Carry a lip balm with you at all times. Do not believe the urban myth that the more you use a lip hydrator, the more you will need one. • If you wear lipstick, switch from a dryer pencil product to a creamier version of your favorite color.

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