Beauty Store Business

AUG 2017

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104 August 2017 | beautystorebusiness.com l f you sell beauty products in your boutique or spa, it's probably safe to assume that you discuss antiaging products with your customers on a regular basis. But have you ever stopped to really think about what anti- aging is—and what antiaging products you should be recommending to your clients? Here we delve deeper to examine the antiaging skin category, which is expected to continue to drive beauty sales. The variety of symptoms associated with skin aging is the best argument as to why your customers need products that are just as varied as the ingredients within. One product will hardly address all signs of skin aging—and this is good news for us retailers and spas! When recommending the right antiaging products, it is important that you and your customers understand the term antiaging itself, which is a bit of an oxymoron. We can't "anti-age," or even stop the aging process. What we can do, however, is help slow down the signs of skin aging (see the following page for signs to watch for). To help set the right expectations, it is essential to understand the difference between chronological aging and environmental aging. Chronological aging is written in our genes, and no topical product will be able to reverse this natural process. Environmental aging, on the other hand, is aging that is accelerated by our lifestyle and our environment. This is the type of aging that we can impact using antiaging products. Sun exposure, with its ultraviolet (UV) radiation, is the main environmental stressor to avoid in order to slow down environmental aging (think avoid- ance of sun and wearing products containing SPF). Other factors that will contribute to environmental aging include smoking and air pollution, to name a couple. ANTIOXIDANTS Oxygen is essential to the life of aerobic organisms, but in turn, its metabolites represent a potential threat to all living organisms. Indeed, as oxygen is consumed (which is how we stay alive), free radicals, also known as reactive oxygen species, are formed as a natural byproduct. Expo- sure to UV radiation also causes these free radicals. In the skin, free radicals induced by UV radiation cause damage to DNA and proteins, and destabilize the membranes of keratinocytes, leading to premature aging of the skin cells. In short, oxidation equals aging. When exposed to UV radiation, the skin undergoes changes resulting in inflammation, photoaging and various skin disorders. Skin photoaging is accompanied by symptoms such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, increased skin fragility and slower healing of wounds. The skin uses antioxidants to protect itself from the damage of these various free radicals. While we all have naturally occurring antioxidants within our bodies, they often are not sufficient to be effective and are fast depleted. Herein lies the usefulness of exogenous antioxidants. Antioxidants are molecules that help neutralize, or prevent the formation of, free radicals. Some anti- oxidants are synthetic (for example, idebenone), while a multitude of antioxidants come from plants. Let's look at a few plant antioxidants in more detail. How to Use Them for Antiaging: Green tea, rosemary, grapes and tomatoes are four of the most common plants studied for their direct antioxidant activity on the skin. 1. Green Tea: Green tea contains four major anti- oxidant flavonoids—epicatechin, epicatechin-gallate, epigallocatechin and epigallocatechin-3-gallate. These molecules have the ability to neutralize a number of the most harmful free radicals. 2. Rosemary: Rosemary also contains various anti- oxidants, in particular, phenolic diterpenes: carnosol and carnosic acid represent over 90 percent of the anti- oxidant properties of rosemary extract. These lipophilic molecules neutralize lipid free radicals, thereby enabling the reduction of lipid peroxidation and inhibiting oxidative damage to skin surface lipids. This all contributes to a more even skin tone and a brighter complexion. 3. Grape Seeds: Grape seeds are a major source of resveratrol. Resveratrol inhibits lipid peroxidation induced by UVB radiation, and significantly decreases UVB-induced skin thickness and oedema. 4. Tomato: Tomato is rich in lycopene, a widely studied powerful antioxidant and anti-carcinogenic carotenoid. Lycopene neutralizes lipid radicals, reduces lipid peroxidation and prevents erythema caused by UV radiation on the skin. IRON CHELATORS You may have heard about iron in the media in the context of anemia (which is caused by a deficiency of iron). While many have discussed the various ways of ensuring appropriate iron intake, whether through diet (by eating red meat and various fruits and vegetables) Skincare Spotlight Reverse the Signs of Aging Learn the science behind top antiaging ingredients to recommend the best solutions for your customers. By Ada S. Polla, with research by Anne Pouillot Courtesy of Ada S. Polla "Skin photoaging is accompanied by symptoms such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, increased skin fragility and slower healing of wounds."

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