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14 October 2016 | beautystorebusiness.com Skincare Spotlight EYE CONTACT IS KEY TO HUMAN COMMUNICATION, and eyes are well known as the "window to the soul." Concerns about the beauty and youthful appearance of the eye contour are key in our industry, and are usually focused on three characteristics: fine lines and wrinkles, puffiness, and dark circles. Indeed, according to Cosmet- ics & Toiletries, "market data suggests that 40% of U.S. women and 19% of men are concerned about their dark under-eye circles and sunken eyes." What are the causes of these three aesthetic concerns, and can eye-contour products really help? THE SKIN OF THE EYES The periorbital area is, by its very nature, the first area of the face to show signs of aging. The skin of the eyelids and eye contour is the thinnest of the body (sometimes as thin as 0.2 mm, compared to the 2 mm average for the rest of the face). This means the skin is more transparent, which in turn means that the vasculature is more visible (often related to under- eye circles). The skin of the eye area also has less sebaceous glands than the rest of facial skin, which means it is more prone to dryness and dehydration. And finally, the skin of the eyes is constantly moving, which will naturally accelerate the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. THE THREE CONCERNS Fine Lines and Wrinkles As is the case for the rest of the face (and body), UV radiation is the primary cause of photo damage and accelerated skin aging, which leads to fine lines and wrinkles. The constant movement in this area, including from blinking, squinting and smiling, will accelerate the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Furthermore, chronic rubbing (in the case of chronic allergies or irritation) will aggravate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, given the skin's thinness in that area. Research has found an increase in wrinkling in the afternoon. This suggests nighttime eye care should be focused on repair—while morning eye care can be thought of as protection (always including sun protection). Puffiness Under-eye bags and puffiness are caused by a variety of factors, including: ✔ Fluid retention during sleep ✔ Dehydration ✔ Excess alcohol consumption (which reduces antidiuretic hormones in the body) ✔ Consumption of foods high in sodium ✔ Hypertension ✔ Hormonal changes ✔ Allergies, colds and sinus infections ✔ Various medical conditions, including hyperthyroidism For many of these indications, prescription medication will help. In some cases, nonsurgical treatments, such as fillers, can offer relief. In the most aggravated cases, however, plastic surgery is the gold standard. In terms of topical care, products containing ingredients with flushing, diuretic and tightening properties will be helpful. The goal is to reduce fluid retention, strengthen the vasculature and improve skin laxity. Dark Under-Eye Circles Similar to puffiness, the cause of under-eye circles varies and is numerous, including: ✔ Excessive melanin pigment (when the dark circle looks brownish rather than purple), which is caused by exces- sive sun exposure, as well as a genetic predisposition ✔ Thin and translucent skin (meaning you see the purplish vasculature), typically aggravated by a weakened vascular system, leading to enlarged and leaky capillaries INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR Given the difference in the skin of the eye area versus the rest of the face, and given the three specific aesthetic concerns that appear in this area, the need for a product specific to this area is clear. Let's now look at the specific ingredients to look for in eyecare products. Fine Lines and Wrinkles ✔ Topical antioxidants, in particular vitamins C and E, and green tea ✔ Niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3) ✔ Retinoids: Avoid tretinoin, which is much too aggressive for this delicate area; instead, look for retinaldehyde ✔ Sunscreen ingredients ✔ Hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide Puffiness ✔ Any source of caffeine ✔ Green tea and coffeeberry polyphenols ✔ Peptides that will increase skin elasticity and firmness ✔ Willow extract Dark Circles Caused by Hyperpigmentation ✔ Hydroquinone, which blocks the tyrosinase (the enzyme responsible for melanin production); also note that hydroquinone is prescription-only in certain countries and some concentrations) Eye Creams: Do We Really Need Them? Let the research and solutions guide you. by Ada S. Polla Courtesy of Ada S. Polla; photo by Kelli Daily, Third Line Studios "Market data suggests that 40% of U.S. women and 19% of men are concerned about their dark under-eye circles and sunken eyes."